Susur Lee’s Magical Mystery Tour

Susur Lee’s Magical Mystery Tourno matter what your
Wrinkled parachutes cast a rosy glow on circle
booths at Shang. Photo: Steven RichterCelestial seafood tofu. Photo: Steve Richterserver
It says a lot about the souped-up speed ofsays). Toasted hazelnuts and a puckery taste of
gentrification in New York and even more aboutsour plum dressing add to the crunch and flavor
Susur Lee that he was willing to close his rockingof 19 ingredients. Sashimi of madai with pickled
hit restaurant Susur in Toronto for Shang, a hoteldaikon, celery sprouts and lemon purée, plus
dining room above Orchard Street. It must havecaramelized wild sablefish, then lobster-shrimp
seemed quite a lure at the moment ofcroquettes with Malay black pepper sauce have
commitment: The Thompson LES hotel with aus raving on our first visit. Dishes arrive two or
world class restaurant in Manhattan’s hottestthree at a time with a clean round of rectangular
new zip code. Now, with escalating financialplates for tasting, white with a tiny red rabbit on
wipeouts and even crazed nocturnal nomadsthe rim – the chef’s astrological sign.
pinching dollars, there’s more riding onI’m a fool for turnip cake, including this one,
Lee’s back than just his ponytail.rife with eggplant, Cantonese-preserved black
bean and shiitakes. With so many exotic notions, it
Every country has its own Chinese food flourish:would be easy to overlook steamed potato
Chef Lee honors that fusion. Photo: Stevendumplings. They sound so ordinary. Don’t be
Richterfooled. Carved away with a triangle of their
Yes, he looks like a movie star and talks like aalmost-veil-thin crust attached, the dumpling is
poet, flashing briefly through the dining room withmarvelous and full of surprises. Crisp-skinned
its big round booths and giant crushed fabricyoung garlic chicken with sweet-and-sour onion
parachutes casting a rosy glow. Lee clearly knowsmarmalade is remarkably juicy.
it’s his to lose. From the look of the Saturday
night crush in the dining room – the preferredThe young garlic chicken is crackly-skinned, moist
age group, vogueish but not slavishly so,within. Photo: Steven Richter
masters-of-the-universe-in-waiting, still dancing onLess thrilling is the Beijing cucumber salad, a too
the edge – Lee’s already got an audiencethick-skinned oxtail soup dumpling in
that could build a buzz. Two longtime veterans ofchicken-coriander broth, and coin-like slices of
hip, one from Nobu, one from Matsuri at theoctopus with tomatillo and tomatoes.
entrance obviously have the required Rolodex.Cardamom-scented carrot and chili-mint chutneys
Tonight’s early responders are not justplus glazed bananas can’t save bland
peripatetic first-nighters but also Saturday datersMongolian lamb chops. But the triumphs blur the
and even locals, a good-looking stew skewingflubs. And even though we’re all groaning
young that might build the vital word of mouth iffrom the excess, our host, a legendary
they like the food as much as we do.gourmand, can’t stop ordering. I am still able
What is it like? "What are the Beatles like?" youto appreciate the saving grace of orange and
might have asked before hearing the Liverpudlianlemongrass granité on lemon curd with passion
four. Like no one, would have been the answer.fruit gelée and bitter orange sorbet. I didn’t
Susur Lee’s magical tour has taken him fromreally need the lemon tart with lemon parfait and
Hong Kong, to Toronto, to Singapore with itsraspberry coulis in tea sauce or the coconut
triangle of influences – Malaysia, Thailand andcrème caramel with Chantilly and black rice
Indonesia – back to Toronto and now hepudding at the bottom, but I tasted – loved
hopes to woo New York with these lyricalthem both – and survived.
inventions. His food is unique, unlike anything I
have tasted here, often thrilling, endlesslyThe chef’s dessert range:  granité, warm
inventive, whimsical and traditional in the sametong yuan, and lemon tart. Photo: Steven Richter
dish, daring and delicious. His passion for designI can’t wait to share this revelation with
almost never overwhelms his mastery of textureChinese friends and taste more dishes even
and layered flavors. He counts on a trustedthough it costs $30 one way and takes forever
second from his days in Singapore as he drivesto creep and lurch through traffic from the Upper
the kitchen to his astonishing tune, is his ownWest Side. It’s my second visit this week.
pastry chef (and also fields room service). BeWe must repeat the slaw, the potato dumplings,
warned. Come with friends you like. In this firstthe taro puffs and my favorite dish of all –
ten days, the kitchen can be slow.steamed tofu custard with crab, shrimp, lobster,
baby mussels and air-dried scallops in Tanjin
Caramelized wild sablefish with mustard greenbouillon, a superior stock of duck, pork and ham
relish and salmon roe. Photo: Steven Richter– sheer umami. The black hairy stuff is desert
You don’t have to know that the chef wantsmoss (not “dessert” as typoed), a green
to honor the Chinese Diaspora. “Whereverthat grows outside Beijing. Thin slices of pork loin
Chinese food goes, it changes with each country.wrapped around green beans with mustard and
I want to honor that tradition.” Call it fusion, Ialmonds should provide safe haven for
suppose, but look for more at Shang. From timetofuphobes and finicky eaters but I won’t
to time, a notion seems totally Chinese.  Crispywaste my calories again. I love squab and foie
taro puffs – four of them lined up withoutgras in wrappers imitating Peking duck but the
embellishment on a plate – are a dim sum youlotus crepes are leathery by the time they reach
might encounter in Chinatown, except for thatour table. Spicy slow braised beef cheek, fatty
velvety surprise of curried egg salad inside. (Taroand luscious, is perfect. Served with soft brown
is a special weakness of mine that not everyonerice and olive preserved vegetables, one portion is
shares.) A big tangle of chickpea sweet onionenough for four to taste, especially, if like me,
fritters on puddles of ginger-mango chutney andyou’ll eat too much anyway. And with so
minted yogurt – orange on one side, green onmany options $12 or less, and everything else
the other – links to India and possibly(except Kobe beef) $25 or considerly cheaper,
Japanese tempura. Splendid lobster croquettesyou can spend a little or a lot. Include a $3 order
filled with salty duck egg, lemon balm, shallot andof mantou whole-wheat Chinese bread to sop up
the tang of chili-lime juice is a generation removedsauces, and you probably won’t want to stop
from China, reminiscing.for a burger on your way home.
187 Orchard Street. 212 260 7900. Closed
Nineteen ingredients and toasted hazelnuts giveSunday. To avoid a steep flight of steps at the
Singapore slaw its crunch. Photo: Steven RichterOrchard Street entrance, enter through Hotel
Lee’s signature Singapore slaw is the perfectThompson LES at 190 Allen Street. Take the
opener (one order is more than enough for four,elevator to 2.